Acne tarda – if you’re plagued by adult acne, do these things

While some people strut through puberty free of stress and pimples, others suffer from stubborn outbreaks and spots. And just when you think you’re out of the woods, it strikes again – or appears for the first time. Acne tarda. Unfortunately, adult acne isn’t uncommon. According to a recent study (link in German), the number of adults suffering from acne has actually increased in recent years – and women are more frequently affected.

What causes acne tarda?

Even if the reasons for the comparatively late onset of acne tarda haven’t yet been conclusively clarified, studies indicate that hormonal fluctuations in particular can cause adult acne (link in German). These include temporary changes such as those caused by stopping the pill, the onset of menopause or pregnancy, but also by the so-called polycystic ovary syndrome (PCO), affecting around 6 to 18 per cent of all women of childbearing age.

In addition, diet, lifestyle and stress (link in German) also play a significant role in the development of adult acne. Junk food, sugar, lack of sleep, a lot of work-related stress and incorrect or excessive use of cosmetics are absolutely not conducive to a healthy complexion.

When and where does adult acne occur?

As a rule, it doesn’t start until after 25, i.e. just when you feel the roughest strains of adolescence are behind you. In contrast to acne vulgaris, i.e. the type of acne that occurs during puberty, pimples and the like mainly appear on the so-called U-zone of the body, i.e. the chin, jaw and neck. The reasons for this are also still unclear. However, people with oily skin are often affected.

What to look out for in creams and lotions

In short, the day’s grime that accumulates on your face has to be thoroughly washed off. However, according to dermatologist Dr Judith Bliemel, no aggressive products are necessary at first. «A simple cleansing gel is usually enough to remove dirt and open the pores. Moisturiser should be applied afterwards, but foundation is also an option. However, it’s important that the products are labelled «non-comedogenic», i.e. they don’t clog your pores.»

What treatmentsare available for acne tarda?

The first step in treatment is topical acne therapy, usually in the form of prescription acne gels. Acne preparations are used either alone or combined. There are topical retinoids (containing vitamin A acid) with anti-inflammatory and keratolytic (exfoliating) effects, azelaic acid with an antimicrobial effect and benzoyl peroxide, which also has a keratolytic and antimicrobial effect.

Systemic therapy in the form of tablets is necessary for severe acne tarda. Antibiotics are used for this purpose. According to Dr Bliemel, these tablets «can quickly intercept inflammatory flare-ups, although experience has shown that old problems can reappear after stopping, since the medicine only has a temporary anti-inflammatory effect.»

However, treatment with vitamin A acid isotretinoin, used for the severe inflammatory form of acne with the risk of permanent scarring, is different. With this treatment method, sebaceous glands produce less skin oils and the acne has time to heal completely.

However, the duration of treatment is very long and usually ranges from six months to a whole year. According to Dr Bliemel, there’s another major limiting factor, although this only affects women. Vitamin A acid has fertility-damaging effects on the foetus during pregnancy. As a result, it’s essential to rule out the possibility of pregnancy before treatment and to use safe contraception during treatment and up to one month afterwards.

How do light and laser therapy or micro-needling help against acne tarda?

These types of therapy are primarily intended to provide cosmetic support. «They may not be able to combat inflammatory acne itself, but they can combat the consequences of acne,» says dermatologist Bliemel. Micro-needling can make the pores finer, which tends to result in less acne. However, these treatment methods aren’t usually covered by health insurance but are considered a personal contribution, like fruit acid exfoliation..

By the way, even if sunlight is good for you and you might be inclined to expose yourself to it to get rid of spots and blackheads, remember: from a dermatological point of view, it isn’t advisable. «As a dermatologist, I can’t recommend this for other reasons either, such as skin cancer. Of course, the sun has an anti-inflammatory effect to a certain extent, but unlike medical light and laser therapy, sunlight contains all forms of radiation, including harmful ones. So it’s better not to sit in the sun for longer because of acne.»

Can I use foundation if I suffer from acne tarda?

Acne isn’t pretty, and, of course, you want to cover up large pimples and blackheads. You can do this without any problems, it’s just a matter of how and with what. Expert Bliemel mentions, «a range of medical foundations available in pharmacies are specially made for acne sufferers. For example, from Avène, La Roche-Posay or Vichy. However, you have to work with a cleansing gel afterwards and wash it off to clear the pores again.»

You should also avoid anti-ageing cleansing oils. It’s best to get detailed advice so that you don’t make any mistakes.

What are the absolute don’ts for acne tarda?

Acne is unpleasant, pimples and blackheads itch, your skin is uneven and you’re constantly itching to pick and scratch at it. And of course, that’s exactly what you shouldn’t do. «This leads to deep inflammation, as the sebum isn’t only pushed upwards, but downwards too – and this creates lumps under the skin,» explains the expert.

You should also avoid using products that are intended for young skin, i.e. for patients with acne vulgaris. Peelings are fine, on the other hand, but as with all other cosmetics, you need to make sure they’renon-comedogenic, i.e. that they don’t clog your pores. The following also applies to scrubs – use them in moderation.